“Kings and queens who wear a suit but once, though made by some
tailor or dressmaker to their majesties, cannot know the comfort of
wearing a suit that fits. They are no better than wooden horses to hang
the clean clothes on. Every day our garments become more assimilated to
ourselves, receiving the impress of the wearer's character, until we
hesitate to lay them aside without such delay and medical appliances and
some such solemnity even as our bodies. No man ever stood the lower in
my estimation for having a patch in his clothes; yet I am sure that
there is greater anxiety, commonly, to have fashionable, or at least
clean and unpatched clothes, than to have a sound conscience.”
Henry David Thoreau, Walden
I left Sokolowsko. I didn't want to, but I had obligations elsewhere. I had made promises and promises are holy.
There was no public transport to the train station in Adrspach. So I walked. I walked in my suit with everything I needed on my back. The backpack was heavy but it made me feel light. I could have hitchhiked but my feet were itching.
Living on the road. Even though I found the place where I want to settle down, it is an addiction I don't want to get rid of. Living in the walking. Walking my life.
I crossed the border, Poland became Czech Republic. I approached the Adrspach mountains. Again I looked at them in awe. They are amazing. And they resemble Montserrat near Barcelona.
A four hour trainride to Prague. A Prague afternoon in a 3-piece walking suit. Ready to fly. But eager to walk more.
I've been wearing a 3 piece walking suit since January, first exploring the city of Barcelona on foot, then travelling through Europe slowly like a travelling saleswoman, carrying an old suitcase with memories embroidered in the pockets of found clothing items. In October I am walking from Spain to the Climate Conference in Paris. I will meet people on my journey, collect new stories. You can follow my process here or even better, meet me on the road.
18.8.15
28.7.15
The first day.
The last night of the Contexts ephemeral arts festival we
danced into the hour of the woolf in the park next to the old Sanatorium
building and before traces of the sun became visible we went on a walk through
the woods and the fields. It slowly got light, somebody gave me flowers, we
walked in a circle and went back to the village. At five in the morning I had
breakfast with two brothers, twins, in one of the beautiful old houses
scattered around this sleepy town center. I had the feeling time had slowed down
here, in this place where Kieslowski and Thomas Mann had left their traces,
where abandoned villa’s and the ruin of the 150 year old sanatorium dominated
the atmosphere. Everywhere around the world was speeding, but here in
Sokolowsko time worked differently. When I left at six in order to get on my
bike and cross the border to my house in Libna, I didn’t manage to get out of
Sokolowsko. I left the bike where it was, in front of the hostel where my
students were sleeping. I walked through the village, sat on a bench, returned
to the park next to the sanatorium and stared at the building, the left part
-normally housing the Kieslowski archive- already renovated, the right part
still waiting to be put back in its old glory.
It took me 7 hours to leave. I sat on all the benches in
town, said goodbye to people, waved out my students. And when I got back in the
world it didn’t seem like I got lost in time like Rip van Winkle did, it was
still the 23d of July, a Thursday. Sitting in my garden I wondered if I would
be back in Sokolowsko.
When three days later I unexpectedly left the residency
where I was supposed to teach for another two weeks, my feet led the way, I
didn’t think. July 26, my wedding day. A beautiful day. Then and now. I walked
carrying my most important things on my back. I was slow, I ate raspberries and
cherries, and in the afternoon I found myself sitting on the terrace of the
only cafe in Sokolowsko, drinking coffee, waiting for something to happen. I
wandered around town, sat on the same benches again, didn’t see any familiar
faces.
In the sanatorium park I found a good spot under a tree, I
collected dried grass to form a bed, the moonlight was bright and when it
started to rain in the early hours of the morning the tree protected me. Sometimes
an animal moving through the bushes woke me up but I slept well. Nothing beats
sleeping under the stars.
Still it is hard to live outside, especially when the
weather is tricky. So I found myself a room. A safe place. And I offered my
services to the Contexts festival organisers so in exchange for some hours of
watching after the exhibition space in the Sanatorium, I had a desk and a chair
and good internet to do some writing and research. So four days after I sat
outside of the sanatorium looking at the door while my students were asleep in
their hostel beds, I had turned my world inside out and was working inside the
sanatorium, looking out into the park and at night I slept in the room
adjoining the cozy hostel room where my students had cooked their communal
meals. Somehow it brought the Kieslowski book I once bought back in my mind,
Double Life, Second Chances.
A home, a job, wild food in abundance. What more do you
need?
There’s one thing. Human company.
The Nomadic Life can be a lonely life at times, but it also
gives you the opportunity to make friends easily. Suddenly there were four
people sitting on the bench and the chairs outside my room, some familiar
faces, some new ones. I shared the only beer I had around, they went for a
bikeride and afterwards I joined them in Koala house where I had had my
breakfast when time stood still. We drank wine and listened to the story of a
walker who had just showed up, passing through the village on a week long walk.
We talked about art and life and the magic of this place.
And afterwards I fell asleep with the scent of freshly
laundered sheets, my head on a soft pillow. I slept long. I felt safe. And when
I woke up I kept my eyes closed and thought of Christian Bobin again: “Great
things always begin with sleep. Great things always begin by the thinnest
edge.”
26.7.15
empty handed
On the road again. Unexpectedly. A backpack, a sleeping bag, a suit.
Nothing more. Nothing less. There is food everywhere, berries and weeds
and seeds. There are sheds to sleep in and hopefully some friendly
people on the road. There is little room for books in my bag but I took
Christian Bobin's "The very Lowly" with me. He writes about the life of
Francis of Assisi. "Leaving. Leaving once more. Incessantly, endlessly
leaving." And this: "The difference between men and women
is not a difference of sex but of place. The man stays in his man's
place, cleaves to it ponderously, with seriousness, remains safely
within his fear. The woman does not remain in any place, not even her
own, but constantly disappears into the love that she calls, calls,
calls. This difference would be a desperate one if it were not for the
fact that it can be overcome at any moment ..... A movement is all it
takes, a single movement of the sort that children make when they throw
themselves forward with all their might and without any fear of falling
or dying, forgetting the weight of the world." And a last one: "I will
be enriched by everything that I loose."
I am empty handed again. So I can fill my hands with raspberries, malva seeds, cherries, wild spinage. So I can take other peoples' hands. So I can hold my walking stick in one and hold to other one over my eyes to protect them from the sun while staring into the distance.
I am empty handed again. So I can fill my hands with raspberries, malva seeds, cherries, wild spinage. So I can take other peoples' hands. So I can hold my walking stick in one and hold to other one over my eyes to protect them from the sun while staring into the distance.
19.7.15
Sometimes the walking isn't in your feet
My students left at 8 in the morning for an epic walk across
the Czech-Polish border, connecting three places where art is at the heart of
things: the artist residency where we are all staying in Zdonov and research
borders in art and life, a small church on the border where a group of Czech
artists have been working for a week on the theme of Borderland and the
epemeral art festival Context in Sokolovsko. They were supposed to be there at
16.00, to receive their applause at the opening ceremony.
The evening before they had prepared food for the road and
in the morning there was a big breakfast. I had planned to walk with them but
other things needed my attention more and sometimes it is also good to let go.
Janine, who had decided to only eat what she would find and get offered for the
whole duration of the festival (5 days) asked me for some last minute input
about edible wild plants and we did a short walk outside together, looking at
malva, wild spinache, dandelion, plantain. Guida gave me an envelope with the
first page of “Waiting for Godot” inside. I had asked them all to leave
something behind, a gift for an unknown person. We had been talking about
having a group of people walking the same route next year but in reverse, from
Sokolovsko to Zdonov, where they would find what we had left behind for them
now.
Joanna had decided not to walk blindfolded. I loved the idea
of her walking without seeing anything, being dependant on the group, especiall
since it had been Joanna’s walk in the beginning. She had come up with the idea
of an artwalk and she had been going on walks in the last two weeks as an explorer,
finding trails, making connections between paths, creating a route, a map, a
way to make a connection between two countries with her feet. Still she was
keen on doing it somewhere in the next weeks but today she wanted to see, to
see the people in the group walking her walk.
In the festival program it was announced as an art pilgrimage walk and yesterday we had talked about the subject, watching video’s from different artists dealing with these themes, talking about the meaning of pilgrimage, looking at Francis Alys pacing in his studio walking a 108 km. pilgrimage trail in the confinement of his own workspace, inside his own head, seeing him pushing a block of ice through the streets of Mexico city. We watched Guido van der Werve walking in front of an icebreaker at the North Pole, doing a triatlon from Warsaw to Paris to connect Chopin’s heart with his body and running a marathon around his house. We looked at the PlanB website showing a map of the movements of Daniel and Sophia who have been wearing a gps on their bodies for the last 12 (Daniel) and 8 (Sophia) years so all their movements have been mapped, turn into maps themselves. We talked about Dan’s “Soul Walker”, an app that takes the idea of a ‘soul’ or avatar that can only travel at walking pace and, using the technology that many of us carry around (a smartphone), gives the user the ability to track the location and eventual arrival of their ‘soul’. And we talked about Anthony Schrag, who is on his way from Scotland to the Venice Biennale on foot, to this 'sacred site', revered by artists across the globe. “Anthony is questioning how alternative artistic practices are valued within and outwith the institutions of art, and through this asks wider questions of personal belonging, journeying and the right of free movement. He is asking what it means to want to go to a place, this place, with the desire to be included, with his participatory, often politically scented ideas. St Anthony, the patron saint of the Lost, acts as a metaphorical guide for the artist's journey and through this pilgrimage, there is an inquiry into why we are always looking to reach another destination; something new, something more, something bigger and better, both materially and spiritually.” (from the Deveron Arts website)
In the festival program it was announced as an art pilgrimage walk and yesterday we had talked about the subject, watching video’s from different artists dealing with these themes, talking about the meaning of pilgrimage, looking at Francis Alys pacing in his studio walking a 108 km. pilgrimage trail in the confinement of his own workspace, inside his own head, seeing him pushing a block of ice through the streets of Mexico city. We watched Guido van der Werve walking in front of an icebreaker at the North Pole, doing a triatlon from Warsaw to Paris to connect Chopin’s heart with his body and running a marathon around his house. We looked at the PlanB website showing a map of the movements of Daniel and Sophia who have been wearing a gps on their bodies for the last 12 (Daniel) and 8 (Sophia) years so all their movements have been mapped, turn into maps themselves. We talked about Dan’s “Soul Walker”, an app that takes the idea of a ‘soul’ or avatar that can only travel at walking pace and, using the technology that many of us carry around (a smartphone), gives the user the ability to track the location and eventual arrival of their ‘soul’. And we talked about Anthony Schrag, who is on his way from Scotland to the Venice Biennale on foot, to this 'sacred site', revered by artists across the globe. “Anthony is questioning how alternative artistic practices are valued within and outwith the institutions of art, and through this asks wider questions of personal belonging, journeying and the right of free movement. He is asking what it means to want to go to a place, this place, with the desire to be included, with his participatory, often politically scented ideas. St Anthony, the patron saint of the Lost, acts as a metaphorical guide for the artist's journey and through this pilgrimage, there is an inquiry into why we are always looking to reach another destination; something new, something more, something bigger and better, both materially and spiritually.” (from the Deveron Arts website)
They were all eager to leave, it was a
beautiful day, I waved them out and the rest of the day, while doing other
things, I thought of them.
I was planning to join them at the
opening ceremony but throughout the day I was starting to feel the urge to walk
in their footsteps and at 16.00, when they were being called on the stage,
tired and dusty, I started walking, wondering if I would sense their energy on
the road, see their traces, hear the echo of their laughter.
I took the small detour my group had
also taken and reached the church where they had paused in the morning and sung
with the other artist just when the thunder that I had heard during the last
hour turned into lightning. Inside there were happy people, in the middle of
their symposium about Borders, hosting guests, serving beer and food. I
listened to some of the speakers, speaking softly in Czech and Polish. I
embroidered a small drawing on the inside of my coat. When the rain started
pouring down, they offered me the possibility to spend the night in the church
and it was tempting to stay there but they were very much into their world,
their borderland and I was in mine and I left when it was dry again and
starting to get dark. I was already too late for the 8 ‘o clock reception in
Sokolovsko, I had at least another 2,5 walking hours in front of me, through dark
woods but that didn’t bother me. But when I reached the crossroad where the
left path lead to Sokolovsko and the right path back to Zdonov I decided to
retrace my own steps.
In the dusk I saw toads crossing the path, big deer and a grumpy wild boar. And when I reached the residency, the big old beautiful farmhouse I was surprised to find Joanna sitting outside smoking.
In the dusk I saw toads crossing the path, big deer and a grumpy wild boar. And when I reached the residency, the big old beautiful farmhouse I was surprised to find Joanna sitting outside smoking.
She told me that the walk had been
wonderful, they had all arrived very tired but happy. They sat on the front row
inside the building where the festival opening took place but the organisers
had completely forgotten about them. Afterwards they promised they would honour
them at the opening reception at 8 but again they forgot to mention them.
I told her that if I would have been
there I would have made sure they would have had their moment in the spotlights
but then I realised it was good I hadn’t been there and they had felt the
disappointment of doing this beautiful thing and it not having been
acknowledged by the people to whom they had offered their walk, their
pilgrimage. I hope that they realised the walk itself, having done it, having
made things on the road, having enjoyed it, having reached their goal, was all they
needed.
And I thought of Anthony Schrag who is still on the road, meeting people, walking, while other artists are presenting their art works and themselves in the middle of the art crowd in Venice.
And I thought of Anthony Schrag who is still on the road, meeting people, walking, while other artists are presenting their art works and themselves in the middle of the art crowd in Venice.
And to quote some words about pilgrimage by one of my favorite writers and walkers:
"Es geht also nicht darum, an ein christliches oder in irgendwiner Weise spirituelles Ziel zu gelangen - sondern darum, auf eine bestimmte Weise zu gehen und zu sehen"
"It isn't about reaching a religious or somehow spiritual goal - but about walking and seeing things in a specific way"
(The rings of Saturn, W.G. Sebald)
Rests me to say that I feel so priviliged to have this opportunity to share my own thoughts and experience with this group of beautiful young people, learning so much through them as well. I’ll join them today. I won’t walk, it will take up too much time. But I will wear my walking suit and carry all the steps I took in it since January with me. Sometimes the walking isn’t in your feet.
16.7.15
Why grow up?
The suit brings me everywhere. On the Czech-Polish border these days to teach and learn from a group of young artists. Today I walked into the projectroom in my suit, nobody was there since we all had a day off but on the table I found a book that made me smile.
19.6.15
now here
Midsummer, big celebrations in Sweden, where I am now. Wearing my suit today, but mainly writing HERE these days: www.exercisesinbeinghere.blogspot.com
1.6.15
Standing on the shadow of the world
I sit in the caravan like a nightowl and try to find words
for what has happened during the day.
Ridiculous in a way.
Or maybe it is true.
Maybe it is like the man told me who passed by one day
to tell me he had bought a t-shirt in the Netherlands to
support a seal rescue center
and smiled when he remembered the long days he had spent on
a bike there.
“Fiets” he said, bike in Dutch and “doei!” when he left
and I answered “doei!”
A way of saying goodbye I haven’t used since I was living in
the village where I was raised.
A village the same size as Cerkno.
“Doei!”
A word that doesn’t get its meaning from a specific use or
combination of words that mean something else in a different setting,
like farewell for example, fare well,
and for which I am sure there is a linguistic term the man I
talked to some evenings at the Jazz Festival Cerkno could have pulled out of
his sleeve at an instant.
Maybe the man was right when I explained him I didn’t have a
home but I was wandering the world to make a living
and he said “like a clown”
and he added a questionmark
“like a clown?”
and I laughed and I said “do I look like a clown?’
I was still wearing the red woolen dress I wear every
morning when I bake the bread,
now devoid of the white flower dots.
The dress that was once bought by a woman in New York
when she was celebrating her wedding anniversary there
and was given to me by her daughter in the Nomadic Village
last year,
when all the Nomads had brought me a clothing item to wear
and every day I represented a collection of their tastes.
Red dress, blue tights and the golden shoes with three kinds
of shoe laces,
golden, silver and black & white.
The shoes I had bought at an auction for a good cause the day
before I left Barcelona to travel here.
“Do I look like a clown?”
He shook his head.
But a red nose or a red woolen baker’s dress,
a big white mouth or a body covered in white dusty flower stains,
big floppy shoes or golden ones with the word LOVE spelled
on their toes
are similar things.
I have an old fashioned suitcase with me.
Inside there are people,
glued on the upper part of the case.
Two bearded men with shiny eyes in suits, white shirts and
bow tie
a handsome woman in a white dress sitting next to a chique white
dog,
another woman in a white dress in front of a mirror, bending
over,
her face invisible.
A child with a sailor’s cap, dancing.
A woman resembling Grace Kelley, reading to two small kids
and a woman in a shiny skirt, standing in front of a flowery
wall,
holding an image of a bird.
I found the suitcase next to a garbage container in Barcelona,
like I found all the clothes I carry around in the suitcase
on the streets.
The people were already in there.
I embroidered my memories of the city in the pockets of the
abandoned clothes
and now I am travelling slowly through Europe like an
old-fashioned travelling salesman, saleswoman.
Selling them to earn money for the homeless in Barcelona,
because they can’t choose their homelessness.
I can.
Today I was wearing a blue dress from my collection,
a night dress.
It has an owl on the back in grey,
grey accents on the pockets and edges
(although I am not sure if you can use the word “edges” when
you talk about clothing items).
I walked through the village in my dress,
inbetween the big bus that used to be an Austrian police
vehicle and is our town hall
and the caravan that is my workspace and will be our gallery
soon, Galeria Nowhere,
and I noticed they had the exact same colours as my dress,
blue and grey.
I fit in here.
But I don’t have to wear the dress for that.
Anyway, most days I wear a suit,
a three piece walking suit like they called it in the old
days,
like it is still officially called these days
although most people aren’t aware of it.
I use my suits for walking.
I believe in words.
When something is called a walking suit it must be meant for
walking.
And I meant to walk here,
not all the way, like I did last year when I walked from
Amsterdam to the Nomadic Village in Austria,
but a 100 kilometers only, from the north of Italy which was
the first Nomadic meeting point to here.
100 kilometers in 10 days, plenty of time to be slow and get
lost.
I got lost in Barcelona though.
I couldn’t leave in time.
So I travelled by bus and train, through France, Belgium,
the Netherlands,
Germany, Austria, all the way here,
carrying 4 snails with me and a small sunflower,
doing deliveries on my way, talking to people, 10 days it
took me.
In the Netherlands I brought an army green coat with a small
metal plane sewed on one sleeve
and the face of Bob Marley and the words “One Love” on the
other, to a woman who had recently lost her husband after a marriage of 43
years, in its pocket the words “sitting inside, hearing the birds welcoming the
sunset” embroidered in pale blue.
I delivered a beautiful red see-through blouse with the
words “I almost became invisible” embroidered in gold in a breast pocket.
I handed over a tiny pair of jeans, bought as a present for
a baby,
in its pocket the words “talking to them I forgot how old I
was”.
And a golden jacket with a memory of the sea in it, the sadness
of the sea.
I’ll get back to that later
That golden coat I delivered in Berlin where I stayed in a
former Stasi office building
and when I walked around in that city in my suit with my
black heavy suitcase I encountered a homeless man who asked me for money and
when he asked if I had just arrived in the city I told him my story, I told him
I was selling clothes with memories, memories in two ways
so I could give money to the homeless.
He told me he had had many professions, he had learned many
things,
but once he was out of work he had lost it somehow, lost his
girlfriend, his apartment, his money, his pride.
Now he didn’t know how to turn it around.
“Look at me” he said
“I can’t go to a job interview like this, people don’t even
want to talk to me because I smell of alcohol.”
We talked for a long time, he asked me many questions and
when he left he was smiling.
I gave him some money
“So you can buy some beers,” I said
But I am wandering off.
Back to the Village in my blue and grey dress.
It is a sunny day.
My snails are asleep or making love.
The sunflower is content.
We just finished our daily three course breakfast:
yoghurt and fruit, prepared by Tina
bread baked by me, today there is fig-pine nut-oregano bread
and garlick-rosemary bread with a little bit of red pepper.
Eggs, prepared by one of the Village men
and now, after our bellies are full and we wait until
somebody bakes a cake
a cake naming the day
chocolate monday, marzipan tuesday, apple wednesday
untill that is done and we meet again to drink coffee
everybody works on their projects.
Tina fills boxes with small prints and objects, Klaus works
on his analogue photos or fixes a roof, Andi and Heidi prepare costumes and
light projections, Francisca interviews people and is building a small
installation, Simon and Mateja are not here but somewhere organising something
for us.
And I walk through the Village in my blue dress and I stop
when I see the shadow of the world in the middle of town, in front of the town
hall.
And I stand on the shadow of the world and I look at the
other world, high up in the sky next to the church, on top of a flag pole.
And later on I sit in the sun with a book and I take the
necklace I’ve been wearing every single day since I found it in an old
warehouse in North Carolina eight years ago, a tiny glass ball caught in a
metal ring and I look through it and the sky turns green and the earth becomes
blue, blue and white.
And I remember how Simon and Mateja told me that one day
they were lying in the grass at night next to the church where they took me on
Sunday to hear the oldest instrument in the world, a 50.000 year old flute,
being played and from where you can see a star cut out inbetween the trees in
the far distance as a memory of the partizans.
When they were there, that night, a while ago, there were
meteorite showers and they saw many falling through the sky, they were looking
up for hours until Mateja said “imagine that we weren’t looking up but looking
down” and they did and it scared the hell out of them.
I put my necklace back on and I continue reading.
I grabbed the book last minute when I was in Amsterdam, in
the place I once called home
the place that is still a home to my hundreds, maybe
thousands of book.
I took it mainly because of its size, it fits in the inside
pocket of my coat easily.
I open it where I left yesterday, it is a theater dialogue,
I read.
SHE “We don’t have time to waste time, we have to discover
the worlds in our heads, catch them in words, share our discoveries with each
other”
HE “Macbeth. ‘Life's but a walking shadow, a poor
player, that struts and frets his hour upon the stage, and then is heard no
more. It is a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.’
Signifying nothing.’
The HE, the boy, is waiting for his father to return, his
father who is a sailor.
The SHE, the girl, is escaping a home that doesn’t feel like
home.
SHE and HE, 13 years old, in love, spend their days near
water.
He looks up every day.
She looks down.
She looks up when he looks down
and sometimes they look into each other’s eyes,
but they only see themselves in the other.
I started reading the book on the first train station where
I had to change trains in Slovenia,
where I had to wait for over an hour.
Where I sat at a bench across the station and stared at the
green hills and the mountains in the not so far distance.
I had seen images of Cerkno.
I knew it was situated in a valley, surrounded by mountains.
I thought about Barcelona, the city I left, I am always
leaving,
the city I had fallen in love with.
Because of the sea.
I sat on the bench, ate a cheese sandwich and a kiwi and
searched for something to read, to kill time.
I found the book in my inside pocket.
I read its title.
Er was niet de zee
“there was not the sea”
And there isn’t.
Even when I went to the supermarket in Cerkno yesterday to
buy blue thread, my favorite colour, to work on the embroideries on the inside
of my jacket, the small drawings that tell the story of my journey, the story
of my attempts to get lost, I couldn’t find a blue.
There was lots of green in many shades,
but when I passed the shelves with handy things, tools,
ropes
I saw a thick rope in a sea blue.
And i bought it to tie down my memories of Cerkno and its
people
memories of green days on golden shoes
wrapped up in the most beautiful colour I know.
And it isn’t really the colour of the sea.
It is the colour of the sky reflected in the sea
the colour of the sky in Barcelona which is the same sky as
the sky over Cerkno.
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